BANLUNG

Banlung is a small town in northeastern Cambodia, and is the capital of the province of Ratanakiri.

This part of the country is heavily forested, giving way to plantation agriculture (rubber, cashews and oil palms) and home to 12 different ethnic minority groups, giving the province a sort of "edge of civilization" feel to it. The town is growing though, new roads are being built and some things change quite quickly.

Getting there

By plane

Banlung has an airfield within the town, but all commercial airlines have stopped servicing Ratanakiri and the only flights are with Mission Aviation Fellowship (Ph:+855 23 880-060), in a new Australian built Airvan GA-8 (7 seater). They have 2-3 flights most weeks from Phnom Penh, often stopping in Mondulkiri and other towns on the way, at around US$120 one way. Priority of bookings is given to aid workers and medical cases. MAF Cambodia Site
At Phnom Penh Airport a US$6 departure tax may be levied. Flights are subject to change, so allow for a flexible schedule. Currently the Ban Lung runway is still a gravel strip, but there are plans to extend it and build a concrete runway, which would make cancellations in the wet season less frequent.

By Bus

Road Conditions: The road between Phnom Penh and Stung Treng has recently been upgraded and sealed (though an unsealed shortcut south of Kratie is more often used as it saves 100km) and can be negotiated rather quickly. But the road between the Stung Treng junction and Banlung is unsealed and despite recent improvements, is still rough with many small bridges and dusty or muddy depending on the season.

It is possible to get buses to Banlung from:

Phnom Penh - Doing this in a single day is now reliable, with 4 buses (Sorya, Rithy Mony, Hy Long, GST; R14,000/$3.50)and numerous minivans (R40,000/$10) servicing the route regularly.

Kratie - Takes 5-7 hours. Costs $8. Buses are often late.

Stung Treng

Laos - It is possible to buy ticket to Four Thousand Islands in Laos from Banlung. These are not direct buses. You must take three buses, switching at Stung Treng and at the border, and then a boat you your final destination. Costs $14-18. Laos visas are not available at the border.

By Private Taxi

A more expensive option than bus, taking a private taxi from Phnom Penh to Banlung is possible, for about US$120. It's a 5-6 hour drive to the junction near Stung Treng, then 2-4 hours to Banlung, plus meal breaks. Some taxi drivers in Phnom Penh specialize in this trip, so they know the best places to stop along the way, and know how to deal with the terrible roads on the last leg of the journey. Your hotel/guesthouse will probably be able to help you out.

Vietnam

The border crossing O Yadaw (Cambodia) to Play Ku-Quy Nhon, Le Tanh, Gia Lai Province (Viet Nam) has been opened to foreign travelers. Vietnam visas are not available at the border but Cambodia visas are. From Pleiku town, take a public van (2 hours) or taxi (1 hour and 30 min) to the border. The Cambodia post is isolated with no regular transport. The immigration police may help find a taxi; bargain - up to $80 for a whole car or $30 for a motorbike with driver. 70 km; 2 1/2 hours. Highway #78 is under construction and most parts are rough.

By boat

A popular way to travel to Banlung involved taking a ferry first to Stung Treng (or Kratie). As of June 2009 these ferries were not running.

Take a boat up the Mekong river to Stung Treng, followed by a car journey to Banlung the next day. After taking a boat, taxi or bus to Stung Treng, take a shared taxi or a van to Banlung. Shared taxi fares are negotiated, but generally much more expensive. The more people taking the taxi, the less money each of you will have to shell out, so taking one of these may only be the best option if you're in a group of three or four.

A ferry from Kratie to Stung Treng costs approximately US$7 and should take about five hours.

Get around

The best way to get around Ratanakiri is by motorcycle, either by renting one and then driving it yourself, or by hiring one of the ubiquitous motodop drivers hanging all around town. Be mindful of the fact that almost no one outside the town will speak English, so it may be a good idea to hire a guide to go with you to some of the villages.

You can rent bicycles near the roundabout.

For motorbike rentals, there is a shop on the highway just west of the roundabout, the Ratanak Hotel, a shop near Tribal Hotel, or most Guest Houses. Readily available are the smaller 125cc semi-step through bikes for about US$5-7/day, these are the types that you will be seeing every Khmer driving. If you'd prefer a bigger bike, they will be able to track down a 250cc bike for US$10/day.

You can also rent trucks or 4 wheel drive vehicles if you'd like, but the cost (US$30-50/day) is often quite prohibitive. Parrot Tours[1] at A'dam have a 4WD Pajero and driver for tours.

Most guesthouses will arrange guides and these seem to get good reviews generally. A number of shop front tour shops have sprung up in early 2009. Sitha at Parrot is reliable and is happy to recommend other guides; ask at the A'dam restaurant. Kris, a German/Dutch speaking guide, is based at Lake View.

Things to See

Banlung is situated near several spectacular natural attractions, including waterfalls, lakes and natural parks, and has hill tribe villages.

Yeak Laom Volcanic Lake. A 700,000 year old volcanic crater lake in the Yeak Laom (Yaklom) Commune Protected Area. The lake itself, as well as the surrounding areas, are considered sacred by the local tribal minorities, and many a legend abound about this lake. There are docks on the lake, and swimming and picnicking are options here. There is also a hiking trail which winds around the lake. Along the trail there is a visitors centre displaying some objects and folklore of the local hill tribes. 4,000 riel (US$1).

Wat Rahtanharahm. Located about 1 kilometre out of town at the base of Eisey Patamak Mountain. Inside is a large reclining Buddha situated amongst a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside.

Waterfalls. There are several local waterfalls, and they are best seen during the rainy season when the water volume is at its highest and the vegetation is lush and green. Cha Ong is the most toured waterfall in the area, and is 18 metres high. The rock area behind the waterfall has been eroded away over the centuries by the waterfall, thus allowing you to walk behind the fall. Kan Chang is another fall, this one approximately 7 metres in height. It empties into a large pool in which it is possible to swim. Ka Tieng is a third waterfall, this one 10 metres tall, in the jungle which also allows swimming. Each of these charge a 2,000 riel entry fee in addition to whatever you shell out to get there in the first place.

Rubber Plantations. On the way to the waterfalls, there are a few large rubber plantations.

Mining Tour. As you might have figured out from all the gem dealers in town, Banlung and the Ratanakiri province is a significant gem mining area. Miners work in the Bokeo mines about 36 kilometres from the town extracting the gems which sometimes end up for sale in Banlung's market. For more information on a tour, ask your guesthouse.

Virachey National Park, (37 kilometres northeast of town and borders (Laos and Vietnam). It's chock full of jungle and mountains, and hasn't been completely explored yet. In the wet season, not all areas of the park are accessible. The Ministry of Environment (Biodiversity and Protected Areas Management Project) offers jungle treks into the park, guided by a park ranger and community guide. Their office is located near the center of Banlung.

Things to do

Go on a rafting trip or jungle trek with a local guide. These can be tailored to your taste but can be expensive for only one or two people. The owner of Lakeview Lodge and Sitha [2] (contact at A'dam restaurant) get good reviews from travelers.

Take a dirtbike ride along 'The Death Highway' ox cart tracks to Sen Monorom, visit a hilltribe cemetery or head to 7 steps waterfall and mining villages with http://www.dancingroads.com

Respect the locals. Ethnic minorities are animist and many taboos exist. At certain times (e.g. village sacrifice ceremonies), outsiders are prohibited to enter the village. Look out for some signs (such as fresh tree leaves hanging in front of the village gate or house). Taking pictures of people or places in hill tribe villages can break a taboo or disturb the spirits so get permission - you may be fined if you don't.

Shopping

Banlung's market, Phsar Banlung, is your standard Cambodian market, carrying everything you've come to expect from a Cambodian market. At the crack of dawn, many of the Khmer Loeu people come laden with fruits, vegetables, and forest products from their villages. Not only is this a good shopping opportunity, it makes for a very photogenic scene (if you can get permission, of course).

There is only one (Acleda) bank in Banlung, and (as of Sept '08) it had an ATM with a new international Visa card link. There are no Cirrus/MasterCard facilities. Since the guesthouses in town that will cash your traveler's cheques do so with a stiff commission and ATMs go offline, you should come here with enough cash to get you back to whatever major urban centre you're headed to next.

Eating

There's not much to differentiate Banlung cuisine from other Cambodian towns. All but three restaurants are owned and run by Cambodians. Aside from restaurants located in guesthouses, there are several eateries that serve western food.

All of these serve a variety of Cambodian and Western food and drinks, the staff are very friendly and dishes start at around US$1.50 or R6000:

A'Dam, east of the market (turn right just before Tribal Lodge, look for the sign on the corner) is the cheapest of these, with a relaxed pub-like feel, and boasts a pool table, big screen television, filling meals and draft beer. Especially convivial on Friday nights when the expats gather - just go and introduce yourself!

Gecko House, also east of the market (on the left past Tribal Lodge), has a more up market ambience. Owned by the brother of A'dam's host, there's good food at competitive prices, some Thai dishes, pizza and draft beer. Popular meeting place for lunches and small group dinners.

Sal's is tucked away a block south from the highway, west of the airport and about 1200 metres from the market, in a delightful new elevated wooden building. The menu has a couple of English and Mexican specialties (like Shepherd's Pie, chili con carne and fish wraps) and pizza. If you take a moto from the town centre they will pay the motodop. The menu is sorted by waiting time - impatient diners can call 012 284 377 to pre-order the pizza.

Nature Cafe is a new venture 2 blocks east and one north of the roundabout. Initially a cafe/bar specialising in quality local coffee and cakes, they have treats like home made ice-cream, served in an garden setting with tables in scattered huts and a circular bar. Started by French NGO types, it hopes to help local staff learn new skills.

Lake View, Star, Ratanakiri (formerly American Restaurant), Treetops and Tribal Guesthouses all have in-house eateries.

There are a growing number of Khmer restaurants in town:
At the Breakfast Restaurant near the bus stop Cambodian breakfast dishes are served. It's a very noisy place, and inside it are four televisions that stay on as long as business is open.

Heading east from the intersection in front of the market (bus stop corner): on the right are a couple of good soup restaurants, the first Tanam popular for breakfasts, the second Soup 63 with a great view, down the second street left is another Khmer place, while further out on the left are a couple of Khmer eateries (one named in Khmer only, the next Red Cow) that have gone beyond plastic chairs and strip lights to a more pleasant decor.
South of the bank the Chip Place does good beef and home style chips.

There are a couple of more up market Western style restaurants, both located at foreign-owned hotels.

Le Jovial Jarai in Terres Rouges Lodge by Kan Siang lake is arguably the finest restaurant in town, famous for its garden setting and music. It serves a variety of Cambodian, Thai, Chinese, and Western dishes and has a full bar, white jacketed waiter and table linen. Prices average $4.50 per main with more expensive imported steaks etc.
Norden Lodge on Yeak Lom Road also has some classy eats including Scandinavian specialties such as Salmon Salad at around $5.

Drinking

South of the roundabout are four shops selling beer, wine and spirits, all a bit more expensive than more accessible places like Phnom Penh. The range of wines is modest, buffs would do well to bring a stock.

All the restaurants and most hotels and lodges have bar service, with A'Dam, Gecko and Nature offering draft beer.

Places to stay

There are several hotels, bungalow lodges and numerous guesthouses in and around town.
Lake View Lodge on the Boeung Kan Siang (town lake) road boasts air con, hot water and a keen English speaking owner. It is currently quite popular with backpackers; they will organise travel through to the 4000 islands in Laos and people seem satisfied with this service. Has a restaurant although the menu is a little dull. $3-5.

Tree Top Lodge at the end of the A'dam Restaurant road is an unusual design with stilt-house bungalows connected by elevated walkways at under $10. Opened by old tourism hand "Mr T", it has nice views and a typical eatery that is a shade more expensive than its peers (beer $1 - 1.25).

Lakeside Chheng Lok Hotel is a new style hotel overlooking Kan Siang lake, featuring fan and air con rooms, hot water, and cable TV, plus some bungalows in the tired garden. Lake view rooms are priced $5 more than road view. US$5-10-15-20. The view across the water from the restaurant is its one real good feature.

Sovann Kiri Hotel 012 654 373 is a new style hotel on the highway as you enter town, before the airport, featuring fan and air con rooms, hot water, fridge and cable TV. US$5-15.
Ratanak Hotel, (075) 974 033, is a 32 room hotel with fans and air conditioning, and a good restaurant downstairs serving a wide variety of Eastern and Western food. Just east of the roundabout. US$5-10.

Kim Morakat Hotel 012 322 292 is near the roundabout, opposite the Ratanak and has rooms in better condition. US$5-10.

Star Hotel a block north of the road into town is an old standby.
Mitta Pheap Guest House on the main north-south road is well regarded by Cambodian business travellers.

Yaklom Hill Lodge, located a few km outside of Banlung, is a nature lovers dream, with individual cottages dotted on a jungle hillside and 3 viewing platforms offering great views of the surrounding hills. Not for lovers of creature comforts tho, this is an ecolodge: cottages have a small fan and 2 small lights powered by a solar cell system; ac power and hot water for showering is available 6-9pm (if the generator works). Good food (Khmer/Lao/Thai), breakfast is included. Friendly staff, tours/guides can be organized. US$15 for a double/twin cottage.

The (in)famous Tribal Hotel charges more than most for its rooms, with one option here being a US$50 per night wooden house! The standard rooms have nice decor, with (at this price, of course!) fans, air conditioning, and cable TV. The standard rooms go for a more moderate US$15-20 and there are basic rooms for around $5.

Borann Lodge next to A'dam 012 959 363[4], is the latest addition to the town's options. This multistory villa turned into a small hotel will suit those who love timber paneling and being central; the rooms are large and well kitted out (fridge, a/c, hot shower) for $15 or a bit smaller for $10.

Norden Lodge, around 5km from the centre on the Yaklom Lake road, is more up market than most with European decor and priced at around $20 for bungalows.

Terres Rouge is the town's top starred experience, boasting a large post-colonial villa style guesthouse, a group of bungalow "suites", a large pool and spa/massage facility and the town's best eatery set in sprawling tropical gardens overlooking the "town lake". It is decorated with memorabilia reflecting the founders French Paratrooper past, and at $35-60 it is in a price range all its own too, but if you are honeymooning...