BATTAMBANG

Battambang is Cambodia's second most populous city, and a popular tourist destination due to the many nearby places of interest.

Getting there
 
By road

Buses and share taxis run to many destinations, including Phnom Penh, Siem Reap (via Sisophon), and the Thai border at Poipet/Aranyaprathet (also via Sisophon) and Pailin.
The Phnom Penh - Battambang - Sisophon road is sealed and well maintained, and the bridges are not prone to collapse (unlike their counterparts on the unsealed roads). Travelling by car, it takes around four hours to get to Phnom Penh, and just under an hour to get to Sisophon. Buses take a little longer.

The infamous Poipet - Sisophon - Siem Reap road has finally been sealed. Getting from Sisophon to Poipet or Siem Reap by car is just under an hour, and about double that by bus.
The Battambang to Pailin road is terrible, unsealed and full of potholes. Now under reconstruction though and Paramount Bus Company has started a service from Battambang.

By boat

Boats go to and from Siem Reap (for Angkor) daily. An interesting and very scenic journey along small rivers, the boats thread their way through numerous charming floating villages and past dozens of towering cantilevered fishing net installations. It can take as little as four hours, or over twelve, depending on the time of year (and hence the water level), however the time can be fairly accurately predicted by checking the time that the same boat arrived yesterday.

When the water level gets very low, the boats cannot get all the way to Battambang and the journey is completed by minibus or pick-up.

Things to see

Battambang is known for its statues which seemingly decorate every public place. Most are of animals (mythical and real) and divinities (also mythical and real?)

The most famous of these statues is on the main road in from Phnom Penh and is of an ancient Khmer King holding a stick which he used to quell rebellions in the Battambang area. The name of the town / province comes from this legend.

The town also has a number of fine colonial buildings along the river including a very grand French era governors residence.

Around Battambang:

Phnom Sampeu, a hill with the killing caves of the Khmer Rouge, a few Buddhist caves and a monastery with two Stupas on the hilltop. Entry is US$2, covering also Wat Banan.

Wat Banan, the so-called mini-Angkor wat, an impressive flight of stairs leads up to a dilapidated Angkor-type temple which is still in use as a Buddhist shrine.

Wat Baydamram, a temple, where hundreds of fruit bats live in trees under the protection of the monks.

Wat Ek Phnom, another Angkor-type temple ruin, about 15 km north west of Battambang. The road goes alongside lovely small rivers bordered by trees and small villages and is in general a very nice area. Approaching Wat Ek Phnom you suddenly encounter a giant Buddha statue in the wat. The grounds of the Wat also have an Angkorian era temple which is in relatively good shape and with some interesting carvings.

Wat Ek

Several opportunities to explore villages exist just south of town. The Cultural village of Watkor, just a few km south of the town center has several "ancient wooden houses" from the early 20th century. Further south are the agricultural villages of Kompong Seyma, and Ksach Puoy. For info call District Administration Battambang: 012.881.516 / 016.666.111

Things to do

Take a ride on the bamboo train (the "norry"). A trip to the train can be booked in most hotels or arranged for with a motorbike/tuk-tuk driver. Expect to pay additional for the train (a special "tourist charter" should cost no more than 10 USD per half-hour). Ask for an estimate of the price directly with the driver and get him to bargain the price for you by linking his own pay to the price you will get for the "norry". Some drivers will cost you less but then drive you to more greedy "norry" drivers and you will end up forking more money than initially planned. Do combine the trip to catch a bamboo train with a visit of the countryside (that is stop your driver on the way there).

The bamboo train near Battambang

Take a motorbike trip around the countryside and visit some nice temples and enjoy the views.

Wander around the market and sample local dishes.

Take the cooking class at The Smoking Pot. Highly recommended by locals and The lonely Planet. Daily courses priced at only USD$8.

Take a cooking course in a family house at Ch'Ngainh! Ch'Ngainh! (Meaning "Delicious"!).

After doing shopping at the local market, go to a famillial house where the very charming couple help you cook some delicious Khmer dishes. For 10 USD, you have a cooking lesson, marvelous time with those charming persons, a cooking book, a very good dinner and maybe some snake wine to drink ! You can reach Sambath at sambath_9@hotmail.com  or by phone at 012 63 93 50, cellular 012 91 00 44. Ask for Sambath at the Royal Hotel.

Eating

You can get some great bread (by French standards!) for 1000 KHR a medium-size baguette up North, between the French cultural centre and the giant statue marking the entry in Battambang from the main interprovincial road. The bread street sellers have elsewhere in town is of a much lower standard for the same price, the kind you find in Phnom Penh (baguette-shaped and sprinkled with sugar).

Smokin' Pot (Ph.3). Mains 3000-6000 KHR. Cooking school-cum-restaurant offering a good range of Khmer and Thai food. Vegetarian-friendly.

White Rose - almost opposite the Smoking Pot, has a huge menu, and some great fruit shakes.
Bus Stop Guesthouse, (on Street 2 next door to the White Rose Restaurant and around the corner from the Smoking Pot). The only restaurant in town that makes a full English breakfast. Whether that's bacon and eggs, Heinz Baked Beans, pancakes and even Vegemite for the Aussies. Great food, great prices. The Bus Stop also does Western Pub meals. Huge portions and imported ingredients means that the food is of the quality you would expect at home. They even have free WiFi so you can browse while you eat.

Places to stay

A grand opening has just been happening for the Bungalow (Restaurant and Guesthouse), in Battambang. The set in in the middle of all season flowers and greeny tropical fruit trees. Good for really relaxing atmosphere and very good western and Thai food.

Budget

Ancient House - home stay in Watkor village, a few km south of town, 100m south of Watkor temple. 012-363174. Talk with Madame Boun Roeung (who speaks some French but no English) about the possibility of staying in her "Ancient House." Accommodation is simple, with foam mattresses on the floor. Other owners of ancient houses may also be open to this.

Hotel Chhaya, Road 3 south of the central market, 012-733204. Very good hotel with clean en suite rooms, fan, two beds and cable TV. Many English speaking guides and motodop drivers hang around here. Rooms from US$4, rates are negotiable.

Hotel Royal, on a side street west of the central market, 016-944955. A good option with a rooftop restaurant. Spacious rooms with bathroom, hot water and aircon around US$25, smaller rooms start around US$5 (clean doubles with shared bathroom and toilets).

Golden River Hotel, is on Street 3 a few blocks down from Hotel Chhaya, just before the sign posted turn for the train station. Good clean hotel with the standard facilities you will find elsewhere in Battambang. Staff are helpful and friendly, rates start at US$5.

Bus Stop Guesthouse, #149 Street 2 (next door to the White Rose Restaurant and around the corner from the Smoking Pot), [3], tel. +855 (0)53 730 544, email: info@busstopcambodia.com. Operated by an Australian man and his Khmer wife. Western Food and cold beer in the restaurant downstairs. Free WiFi access in the rooms and downstairs for the public with the fastest internet in town. Up to date travel advice in native English. Room prices from $10-$20 (cheapest hot water rooms in town)

Mid-range
TEO Hotel, Road 3, tel: 952288, (mobile) 012-857048. Very good value for money - from US$10 for an immaculately clean and well-maintained room with double bed, air-con and fan, hot water, TV, and mini-fridge. VISA and MasterCard accepted. Internet. Indoor restaurant with a fair selection of Western dishes, and additional tables outside in a small garden.