KEP

Kep is a seaside resort in Cambodia.

Cambodia's top seaside destination until eclipsed in the 1960s by Sihanoukville (and, soon after, decades of civil war), today's Kep is slowly being rediscovered by travellers.

Getting There

From Kampot: The road from Kampot to Kep is paved and smooth. 25km, 30-45 minute trip. Follow the road from Kampot to the White Horse Monument. Bear right at the monument (go straight to Kampong Trach.) At the next main turnoff, bear right onto the oceanfront road to the Kep Beach area. Motodups charge about $2 - $3 one way and $6 round trip. Package day tours to Kep out of Kampot also often include a visit to at other nearby destinations such as Rabbit Island, the caves between Kampot and Kep and a pepper plantation. Sok Lim Tours is offering moto-trailer tours to Kep for $3/person.

From Phnom Penh: There are two bus companies driving to Kep, leaving PP at 7AM and 1PM either from the central Market or the Olympic Market at $ 5/person. The more comfortable way is hiring your own taxi at $ 40-50.

From Ha Tien, Vietnam: Take a motorbike taxi. Bargain hard. It is a 45min journey mainly on a dirt road. Cost 100,000+ dong per person.

Getting Around

The best way to move around Kep is rent a motorcycle at around US$7 for a small 125cc or around US$14 for a 250cc. A nice and peaceful way is also to get a bicycle from your guest house or from the Led Zep cafe.

Things to see

Kep Beach. A single, kilometer long crescent of sand near the tip of the Kep peninsula. Dining platforms and seafood vendors line the road behind the beach. Busy on weekends but often deserted during the week. The road through Kep traces the coastline to the beach and then circles back on itself. Cars and vans must pay admission to drive the loop (2500R-5000R). Motorcycles and pedestrians are free. Be aware that the loop is an one way street and the police do occasionally enforce the law, levying fines against violators.

Kep Mountain. There is an easy trail going full circle around the hill above Kep in the National Park. It's a wonderful piece of jungle, in which it is quite probable to see some monkeys and other animals. The trail is about 8km long (a 2-3 hour walk) and has a lot of direction signs made by Christian from the Led Zep Cafe.

Kampot Pepper. An absolute must is to visit the Pepper plantation at Phnom Voir mountain, about 20min drive from Kep. This pepper used to be the number one pepper in the world and all the good French restaurants had it. It is having a revival at the moment with some local NGO (Farmlink) helping promote and plant it again.

Colonial Villas. There are around 100 or more old French villas, mostly destroyed by the Vietnamese army and some of them overgrown like Angkor Wat - quite a spooky feeling. Some of them have been restored, but most of them are in possession of rich military officials who are waiting to sell it at the highest price.

Caves. Around Kep there are 3 major caves, some with small shrines inside. The most impressive and biggest one is the one near Kompong Trach with beautiful limestone formations. You can also find a swimming cave nearby.

Crabs. No visit to Kep is complete without having a least one meal of the fresh crabs, apparently the best one in Cambodia.

Rabbit Island. Rabbit island is only a 20 minute boat trip (around 8-10USD one way) away from Kep beach. Bungalows on Rabbit Island are quaint and cheap (from 5USD a night), and is generally pretty quiet. One of the nicest remote islands worth seeing in Cambodia.

Things to do

Lida Massage, National Road, +855 12 953 427. Great Massages (Thai, Oil or Steam) for only USD 7, located just next to the Kep Lodge.

Sailing Club, next to the crab market a newly established place called the Sailing club has commenced activities, where you can rent catamarans, kayaks and even a speedboat. They now also have a eating menu with some special food.

Shopping

Lily Perles, near Crab Market, +855 17 306 550. daytime. Liliperles, a new shop in town which sells 'bees' from all over the world for very reasonable prices. Lily and Stefan the owner have been doing this for years and their collection is huge and very tastefully. They also have a small school for free, for learning French to the local people. Better leave your wife at home, otherwise your wallet will shrink a lot. I warned you!

Eating

Kep is famous for its crabs and you can get live crab in the crab market. Crabs are caught using line and are left in the floating cage in the sea. For a dollar or 2 you can get the hotel to cook or steam the crabs.

You can also go to one of the crab restaurants built over the seashore along the road out of town (the Crab market - towards Kampot). The crabs cooked with fresh Kampot peppercorns are to die for!

Fresh fish with pepper sauce. Only $2!

Kimly restaurant. Excellent place to try the crabs.

Kep Lodge Restaurant and Bar, [1]. 7am-12pm. If you are looking for great western food with a special touch you are right at the Kep Lodge. You might have never heard of Roesti, Swiss style hash browns with either sausages or cheese or bacon or eggs, but yet alone this is worth having a look. They also serve you one of the best Amoks in Cambodia and the best pizzas south of Phnom Penh. The bar has a good choice of cocktails (try the Passion fruit Vodka), 13 different beers and a pool table. It offers spectacular sunset views. FREE Wifi and they also have a laptop for guest use at the bar.

Led Zep Cafe. The Led Zep Cafe is located at the second roundabout next to the beach under 2 big trees providing a lot of shade. The Led Zep has a small menu offering Burritos, Pizzas and Pan Cakes. What makes this place a must, is the big range of detailed maps of Kep and its surroundings (No photos please). Christian, the very helpful French owner has been living in Kep for 5 years and knows quite some stories. He made all the signs guiding you around the Jungle Trek and it was him, who discovered the 'Sunset Rock', a rock with great views over the area and the gulf of Thailand. They also rent out mountain bikes. A lovely place to unwind and to rest enjoying a cold beer or a cappuccino.

Drinking

Lida Bar, National Road 33, +855 12 953 427. 12-late. This newly opened bar at the Lida Khmer Guest House is small but with a powerful sound system, a little dance floor and some seriously cold drinks. Worth a visit and always stays open late. Great addition to Kep.

Kukuluku, National Road, +855 12 607 8777. morning till late. Kukuluku, not only a guest house on the sea shore also has a small bar with some music. The location is hard to beat, right on the sea, with some great sunset views for the honeymooners and all other romantic folks out there. Also have a restaurant, try the steak.

Chameleon, Kep City, +855 99 516 014. 5pm till late. Small little bar in the center of Kep City, just next to the market, with some board games, a serious poker table, some DVD's and lots of nice drinks. Probably the best and most refreshing Mojitos in Kep.. Worth the trip.

Places to stay

The Beach House Kep (The Beach House Kep), Right on the beach (Directly behind the white lady statue on Kep Beech Road). The Beach House Kep is the premier hotel accommodation in Kep - offering the best value, location and service. 35-50.

Kep Lodge, Pepper Street, +855 92 43 53 30 email: info@keplodge.com . Located below the national park, offering superb views over the gulf of Thailand, with only 6 private bungalows (hot water shower, breakfast included - home made mango or papaya jam). A very peaceful boutique resort. Very good pizzas and roestis (Swiss specialty), espressos, cappuccinos and home made ice cream. New swimming pool, free bicycle, free WiFi, snorkel trips, a lot of information about Kep, Tours. US$28-36.

Knai Bang Chatt, One of the fanciest places in all Cambodia, this complex has only three (3) seaside villas. Book more than one, and they'll guarantee that the entire place is yours. Great swimming pool, free WiFi, a real private hide away. Next to the Sailing Club. US$160-350.

Star Inn, 777 Ocean Blvd, +855 11 777 012 email: Starinn_kepcity@yahoo.com . An ideal small 13-room! hotel to stay is the Star Inn. All rooms are facing the sea. General Manager is Nov Siemye. The hotel as a seafood restaurant (not recommended), cocktail bar and an Karaoke, so it is quite loud at night. The staff are very friendly is this small hotel. US$20-35.

Botanica, National Road 33a, +855 16 562 775 email: info@botanica.com . A friendly easy going guesthouse with 5 nice, but small bungalows with fan and shower. Restaurant serving inspirational world kitchen. Pool table, petanque, book exchange. Friendly staff, great value for money. US$8-10.