KOMPONG THOM

Kompong Thom is the capital of Kampong Thom Province in Cambodia. It's situated about half-way between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap and thus most travellers will only rush through on there transfer between these to major attractions.

Nevertheless it is a pleasant and relaxed place and a good starting point for exploring the countryside and the temples of Sambor Prei Kuk.

Getting there

Buses, minibuses (8,000 Riel) and shared taxis (12,000 Riel) connect from Phnom Penh. The same selection of transport should be available from Siem Reap.

Phnom Penh to Kompong Thom about 25,000 riel for one place in a shared taxi, $4 for a bus.

Mekong Express buses stop at the Arunras Guest house and tickets can be bought from there.

For a share taxi (7 seats) from PP to KT is $5 per seat. If you want the front seat to yourself (2 seats) you pay $10. Highly recommended.

Getting around

The town is easily explored by foot. There are motorbike-taxis for hire to take you to more distant sights.

Things to see

There is an interesting fruit bat roost in the grounds of the old governors residence (a nice colonial? era building). This is behind the market on the first road off the river.

The grasslands and rice-fields surrounding Kompong Thom of an extreme importance for wildlife conservation. These areas hold the largest global population of the endangered Bustard the Bengal Florican as well as occasional large water birds from the Tonle Sap floodplain (Adjutants, Pelican, Painted Stork). Other species include large numbers of wintering palearctic passerines (including Dusky Warbler, Yellow-breasted Bunting, Siberian Ruby throat) and the globally vulnerable Manchurian Reed Warbler. In March large numbers of Oriental Plover pass through the area making this possibly the best area in the world to see this species.

The areas also offer a glimpse of everyday life in the Cambodian countryside with many fishermen, ox-carts and small scale farmers. The best way to visit the grasslands is by en-listing the help of a moto-dop driver from in-front of the Arunras guesthouse. A number of these know the area (around Rolous village about 5km towards Phnom Penh) and speak English.

Eating

The American Restaurant, Por Chea Tepatey Road (on the side street down from the Arun Ras Hotel; across from the Department of Agriculture), +855 092 579 410. Serves handmade ice cream, Australian Beef burgers and homemade pizza. It is quite nice. The owners are friendly. The food is very good especially the ice cream and pizza. reasonable.

Arun Ras Hotel. An English menu but the food is mediocre and over-priced whilst service can be slow.

Stung Sen, (near the river). The most up-market 'tourist friendly' restaurant in Kompong Thom.

In the evening, a small night market pitches stalls just in front of the market hall.

By far the best khmer restaurant in Kompong Thom is located behind the Arunras Hotel on the corner of the market. Food is excellent and this place is regularly visited by locals however there is no English language menu and the staff only speak Khmer

A number of large establishments on the road to Phnom Penh (marked by the ostentatious architecture) are frequented by upper-class Khmer but do good Khmer food.

Drinking

Don't bother in Kompong Thom. There is Karaoke on the top of the Arunras Hotel (that's it).

Places to stay

At the bus stop, walk away from the main street along the little side side street for a minute, there are two simple but quiet guesthouses in traditional Khmer-houses with reasonable prices.

Around the bus stop there are several guesthouses which apparently double as brothels in the evening.

The best place to stay is the Arunras Guesthouse ($3 for a single/double room with a fan). It has cable TV (including ESPN for English football) and is clean with friendly (Khmer speaking) staff. However its very popular, particularly with Khmer government officials, and can be full.

More up-market are the Arunras Hotel next door and the (favoured by tour groups) Stung Sen Garden Hotel. A number of cheap and dirty other guesthouses exist.

Leaving

Sambor Prei Kuk

Hire a moto-taxi to take you to the complex. It's an approx. 2 hours ride through nice scenery and small villages with friendly inhabitants. The Pre-Angkorian site dates back to the beginning of the 7th century and was the capital of the Chenla-Kingdom. Unlike Angkor, the temples are constructed from brick and sandstone. The complex consists of three main groups: Central Group, South Group, North Group, all covered by shady forest.

Whilst 'talked up' by the guide books Sambor Prei Kuk is a disappointment for people expecting temples that even vaguely vie with some of the other Khmer examples. At $3 for a ticket its just about worth it though most of the temples appear to resemble 19th century European brick kilns. Lots of kids hanging around latch on to any visitors (there's not that many) so the 'peaceful' temple in the jungle experience doesn't really happen. Whilst probably important in an historic context a visitor to Cambodia with little time should probably give this temple a miss (Beang Meala outside DomDek is far better).

Kompong Thom is the starting point for an adventurous tour to the seldom visited jungle plains of northern Cambodia. This 3-4 days motorbike ride to Preah Vihear is offered by some of the moto-taxi drivers, who will propose it to you once they spot you getting off the bus. With you sitting on the back of the bike, your driver will take you through peaceful villages and rice paddies, passing by friendly locals, spending a night with a local family and visiting the temples of Preah Khan Kompong Thom and Koh Ker on your way. A part of the journey leads you along an old Angkorian road and over its ancient bridges. The ride itself is hardship, skidding over sticks and stones, through sand oceans and bamboo forest, sometimes fording small rivers. From Preah Vihear, you will head to Siem Reap via Anlong Veng, the place where Pol Pot is said to have died.