KRATIE

Kratie (pronounced kra-chey) is a tiny town in northeastern Cambodia. Despite its small size, it is the capital of the province of the same name.

Kratie is one of the four provinces in northeastern Cambodia, and although it is relatively remote and not heavily touristed, traveling here won't earn you points if your priority is to be a pioneer. There's no large scale tourism, but plenty of backpackers pour through here during the peak season. The town has developed to meet this demand, with very good budget accommodation that is well known in backpacking circles.

The province is heavily rural, so be mindful of yourself and your behaviour.

Pagoda Roka Kandal

Getting there

By road

From Kampong Cham (to the south) the road is currently in good repair. From Stung Treng (to the north) the road is good and has been sealed; if headed into Laos, a visa must be obtained in advance as they aren't yet available at the Lao border.

The bus/truck station is in the northwest part of the town.

Buses to/from Stung Treng take about 3 hours. As with all forms of transport in Cambodia, get your bus ticket early, and show up even earlier to ensure you get the best seat, as buses will fill up fast as soon as they let people board. With the improving road conditions, bus services have improved and there are now a number of options between Stung Treng and Phnom Penh. There is a daily bus from Siem Reap to Kratie. It leaves at 7.30am and costs $10. You will have to switch buses half way through this journey at Skuon.

Trucks go to various neighbouring towns and provinces but you have to weigh the benefits and drawbacks of this form of transport carefully. They are less safe and often slower than buses, as well as being more expensive. The one (potentially) overriding positive is that riding in a truck you get the chance to have a much closer connection with local Khmers than if you were riding in a tourist bus, particularly as you'd be surprised how many Khmers in the provincial capitals are somewhat proficient in English. Expect to wait a couple of hours for the truck to fill up, assuming you're the first one there.

to/from Kampong Cham: 10,000 riel in the back, 15,000 riel in the cabin, 8-10 hours
to/from Stung Treng: 20-25,000 riel in the back, 25-30,000 in the cabin, 10-12 hours
to/from Ratanakiri: US$12 in the back or in the cabin, 12 hours

By boat

With the improvement of the roads, ferry services along the Mekong River from Kampong Cham no longer run. If you are feeling adventurous, you might find a rice-barge on its way north from Kampong Cham.

Getting around

As the town is so small, ignore offers from touts to take you from the bus stop into town, since it's a walk of just a few minutes. If you feel compelled to hire a motodop to take you anywhere within town, you won't need to pay anything more than 500 riel for your short journey. To visit sites outside the town, you'll need to hire a motodop for a few dollars - standard prices are posted around the guesthouses, typically US$3-5 depending how far and how long you go for.

Motorbike rentals are available at the Star Guesthouse. A 110cc Honda step through bike for US$6 per day, but it isn't really worth it. Given the tiny size of the town, you won't need one to do anything within Kratie itself, and the roads outside Kratie aren't in great shape.

Things to see

Phnom Sombok, (Head north and look for the hill). is a rather nifty temple north of town. Situated on the only hill anywhere near Kratie. A long set of steps lead to a pavilion, the interior of which is painted with more torture scenes, depictions of what happens to those not virtuous enough to lead a holy and clean lifestyle. Makes a good stop on the way back to or from the dolphins. Free.

Sambor, (About 40km from Kratie). This is a pre-Angkorian era settlement. The temples, among which is Wat Sorsor Muoy Roi (temple of 100 columns) contain several colourful murals that tell legends of nature, and other traditional Buddhist stories. The original structure is no longer standing, in its place is a reconstructed temple. Guess how many columns it's got?

Town Museum, (At the north end of the main town near the globe roundabout). This place is almost never open. If you are really keen, go see the culture ministry and they might open it up for you (for an appropriate donation - say US$2) - though you'll be lucky to catch them in the office.

Wat Roka Kandal, (About 2km south of the centre, right on the riverfront). This is a restored ancient pagoda. It's ideal for a bike ride or extended walk - just go south and stay on the riverside. There is a range of low-priced souvenirs, and the pagoda is worth seeing for itself - as it is an ancient, Laotian style place, which has been beautifully restored, and now offers traditional accommodation - see the Sleep section. There is also a more modern pagoda over the road, with a good contingent of monks who can be heard chanting at dawn and dusk. It now serves as the local office and shop for the Cambodian Craft Cooperation, which is working with local craftsmen to create quality goods.

Pagoda Roka Kandal

Cham basket weaver

Basket weaver villages, (15 km south of Kratie). There are three basket weaver villages near Kratie. The biggest is the Cham village Chheu Teil Ploch with 4,000 villagers.

Cham basket weavers

Things to do

Irrawaddy Dolphin Watching, The best spot to watch the dolphins is Kampi village, 15km north from Kratie.. is a very popular activity, but a growing number of tourists are skipping it, because of the increasing cost. As there are less than about 80 dolphins left, you may only see them from a distance, though there are sometimes large groups of them frolicking. The best times for viewing is late afternoon, rainfall permitting. To protect the dolphins, you should ensure that your boatmen follows the dolphin watching guidelines provided and only use oars when near the dolphins. There's also a nice little shop which does benefit the community and helps encourage the villagers conserve the remaining dolphins.

Getting there: By motodop, this trip should set you back US$2-4 for the roundtrip, about 20 minutes each way. Or rent a motorbike for $5 and drive yourself.

Price: $9 per person, $7 for three or more people. This include a boat trip. If you just want to sit on the bank and watch the dolphins, you still have to pay the same. This is a government charge that doesn't seem to be going to conserve the dolphins.

Bird Watching. If you are interested in birds, when on the boat, go upstream to the islands to look for the Mekong Wagtail (Motacilla samveasnae), a Cambodian endemic species that can be found in this stretch of the river. Early morning might find them hopping on rocks near the dolphin area.

Community Development Tours. CRDT is a local organisation which works with communities along the river and runs Community Development Tours to their projects. This gives your a unique experience of Cambodian village life, and the chance to help out with their integrated development and dolphin conservation project.

Basketball and Volleyball. There's a basketball and volleyball area on the south side of the old Governor's residence. The security guards probably won't refuse a civil request to use it within reasonable hours, and they might even join in.

Shopping

Acleda Bank (Road 12) is near the northern end of the Market. This branch can change dollars and Thai baht only. They can also cash traveler cheques. However, there is no ATM yet (nearest one is in Kompong Cham)

UPDATE Acleda now have an ATM machine 24/7 BUT it will only accept Acleda ATM cards AND VISA cards - They say VISA debit cards but it happily accepted my VISA credit card. A more expensive option for funds, but saves a 3-4 hour trip to Kampong Cham. The ATM's require 6 digit PIN.

Money changers are available throughout the town, particularly in and around the markets - look out for packets of money on display. Some guesthouses can also change money. They will give you in general a slightly better rate than the bank but you have to ask around for the best deal. Some of them do also change other currencies than dollars such as Thai baht and Vietnamese dong. Occasionally, other western currencies are changed as well but expect a poor rate. It is possible to change Lao kip but you are better off changing kip to dollars before leaving Lao. The Riverside Guesthouse usually offers the best rate for kip, though still poor.

The market is located along the main road at the centre of town, and there you can find the standard assortment of local foods, fruits and meats, as well as a small variety of handicrafts and things. Remember your bargaining skills and etiquette when here.
A couple of barbers shops are located on the road near the Mekong Restaurant. They are open pretty late ('till at least 8PM), and charge 2,000 riel for a standard cut.

Eating

Aside from the usual assortment of food and drink stalls in town, there's a few different restaurants for you to eat at.

The two backpacker staples are the Red Sun Falling, on the waterfront opposite the port building, and the Star Restaurant on the corner near the market. Both have good food and drinks, and the ex-pat touch. Prices are reasonable, but not as cheap as the nearby Khmer food. Service can be slow - but what's the hurry? The Red Sun Falling also has a good selection of books for sale, which you can browse while you wait.

Heng Heng Restaurant serves tasty Khmer food at reasonable speed and price per dish US$1-2.50. Khmer breakfast also OK with a western option of omelette and bread for US$1.
Mekong Restaurant has typical Khmer food including staples such as of fried rice, grilled chicken, and rather tasty French fries. Dishes go for US$1-2. Currently (2006) seems less popular.

Balcony GH & Restaurant has a restaurant/bar with a standard menu of Khmer and Western food US$1-3.00 and slightly more expensive daily specials. Lots of veg food, including marinated tofu burgers. Advertises as having the cheapest, coldest beer (USD$0.75) and pastis is only US$0.50.

You Hong Restaurant is attached to the guesthouse of the same name (next to the market) and has an impressive menu, and can cook some of it fairly well. They also have an Internet connections, which is slow, but usually working.

Drinking

Watching the sun go down over the Mekong, with a cold beer or a tuk-a-lok (fruit shake) on the riverfront, is one of the joys of a visit to Kratie. There are many stalls which set up in the late afternoon to service that need (and stay open until midnight, unusually late for a Cambodian Provincial town).

Places to stay

As Kratie has developed rather nicely to meet the demands of backpackers it receives, there are several guesthouses to recommend.

Heng Heng Hotel, Rue Sumamarit, +855 72971405. Now offers riverfront rooms of very good quality (especially at the Heng Heng 2), if slightly pricier than other options in town. This place has been upgrading itself significantly over the past few years, and now has hot running water. The restaurant downstairs is a good choice too. Singles US$5, doubles US$12.

Oudom Sambath Hotel, Rue Sumamarit, +855 72971502. Probably the best hotel in town, and some of the top-floor rooms offer good views of the Mekong. Owned by a local General (in his wife's name), whose official government salary is about US$38/month; the opulence of the timber decorating the place might suggest where the money came from for this substantial investment. Singles US$8, doubles US$15.

Santepheap Hotel, Rue Sumamarit, +855 72971537. This has long been considered the standard choice for tour groups, and has a small restaurant. Rooms come complete with hot running water and some cable channels for your viewing pleasure (even though you probably didn't come to Kratie to watch TV). Singles US$6, doubles US$15.

Balcony Guesthouse, Rue Sumamarit (on riverfront 350m N of bus stop), +855 016604036 (balcony@y7mail.com). Opened in April 2009, jointly Australian/Khmer managed, has large, light, clean rooms with good quality furnishings. Relaxing restaurant/bar on the balcony overlooking the Mekong, a perfect place to watch the sunset. There is also a communal area with an extensive collection of DVDs and also WiFi-enabled Internet. Doubles (shared bathroom with hot water) US$4, doubles (attached bathroom) US$6; 1 large twin room US$9, A/C extra.

Star Guesthouse, +855 72971663, +855 12753401. checkout: 12 noon. Has been elevated by tourist and guidebook alike to the status of best in town, but this is debatable. It often gets the lion's share of backpackers during the busy parts of the year. The rooms are ok, and the staff speak some English, and can offer local travel tips for you. Singles/twin US$4, doubles US$5; larger rooms cost US$2 more.

Wat Roka Kandal, (About 2 km south of the town centre (transport is not hard to organise),  okakandalguesthouse@mekong-dolphin.com ; rrokakandalguesthouse@mekong-dolphin.com . These bungalows are by far the most romantic place to stay in Kratie. Two traditional wood houses, right on the river bank and next to a restored ancient pagoda, have been fitted with mod cons such as showers and air-con. US$15-20. They can sleep two, or a family.

Roka Kandal lodge

You Hong Guesthouse, (Opposite the northern entrance to the market). Has close links to many transport options and you may find yourself dropped off there. Has a good restaurant, and cheap but basic rooms, and is popular with budget travellers. The Internet service is a good feature (though you don't have to stay there to use it). The atmosphere out front is about as bustling as Kratie gets.